Sunday before going to Ramallah, I went to Sunday morning church services with Lanny Peters, the minister at Oakhurst Baptist, Darrell Elligan, Gerald Durley, Amira and Ken Brandt. While everyone else was going to an Anglican Church, St. Georges, we went to the Baptists Church of East Jerusalem. A lovely white haired Palestinian man picked us up in his van and it turned out to be the pastor himself. He was so happy to have all of us and so hospitable. What a gentle soul. He turned to me and said we have lots of Jews come to our church, but the Messianic ones, you will be the first regular Jewish rabbi ever to come. We introduced ourselves and the church was an incredible bastion of international good will. There was a Ghandian approach to the conflict. Blessings abounded for all people. Prayers were sung in English and Arabic. The Baptists in the group were blown away by my ability to offer up spontaneous prayer during the petitionary prayer. It was a powerful prayerful service shared by some of my favorite people.
Speaking of favorite people, I chose Tayyibah Taylor as my partner for the trip to Ramallah. She is a remarkable Muslim who founded a magazine to accurately acknowledge the celebrations and challenges of American Muslim women. She is one of the most open and accepting people. In Turkey when many Muslims did not speak to me in depth out of homophobia, she went out of her way to graciously meet me. I trust her implicitly and often work with her in interfaith settings. I knew this would be a challenging day.
Sitting in the front of the bus, we had a clear view of the wall that cut through the land. Graffiti marked the wall from the oft repeated expression "The Wall Must Come Down", we also saw F*&K all the Jews, Peace, Remember the German Wall and images of a silhouette of a girl with balloon floating above the wall and the swatiska equated with the Jewish Star. It was a hard site to see. A market place had sprung up around the wall and there seemed to be chaos around the check point.
We drove through and honestly what I saw was plain confusing. We had little context. There were some beautiful homes, unfinished buildings, ruins of house, empty lots. What had been bulldozed? What had been stopped because of funding shortage? What had been retaliation? What was simply in the process of being built? We stopped at the home of people the Muslims on our pilgrimage met the Al Aksa Masjid. They made us an incredible lunch and the men and women went into different houses. We had very little interactions though on the men's side. I made it a point to speak with a guy who was in his 20s and split his time between Ramallah and New Orleans . We did not talk about the situation, rather about his new child, his family and his job. We also spoke about discrimination of Muslims in Louisiana. On the women's side, it was very different. The hostess spoke of the Israeli's oppression and how horrible their life had become. This was upsetting to some of the Jewish women who began to disagree. It seemed like a tense experience. Leave it to the men to stay away from the hard topics/
We then had a tour guide join us on the bus. We stopped to over look some of the bombed out buildings and overlook the governmental compound that had once been Arafat's and now is Abbas' compound. An impoverished family greeted us and their children were excited to see and they handed us flowers. Our guide began to give us a pretty slanted view of Israel's role, anger seemed to seethe. As a group, the Jews were very respectful though we sought out each other's eyes for safety. We then toured the refugee camp, which was not what I expected. People lived in crowded conditions, the quality of life was equal to if not a bit better than my students who lived in public housing in New Orleans--though that is not saying much. But I was expecting total squalor and tents and it was not that. We then listened to Doctor Bahruti who came in second during the last election. He is someone who supports democracy and wants to put an end to corruption though he seemed very political. He founded a medical relief center sending 1.3 million Palestinians, 1/3 of the population. He claimed that a silent majority of Palestinians made up a silent majority who wants democracy Though he said several things that seemed inaccurate, he was more balanced than the first woman. He claimed that the main purpose of the wall was to steal Palestinian land not safety. He suggested that Sharon only promised to leave Gaza because he wanted to set up a distraction to the building of the wall. However he was barely self reflective and that has to be part of the solution I think. Why is the majority silent? He made comparisons to South Africa and apartheid. We left feeling pretty hopeless.
I will reflect more on this when I return home. Later that evening we heard from an Israeli speaker who was not much better. I will elaborate later.
Again, it is late and I plan to keep writing after I return. We leave for Paris tomorrow and the Atlanta the next day.
Shalom-Salaam-Peace,
Joshua
