Haverim,
Right now, I am using an internet connection in a hotel lobby in the heart of West Jerusalem, the Kings hotel. It is hard to concentrate because there are dozens of orthodox children running around and slamming the piano. There has been a large orthodox contingent and they have had the most chaotic children and the hotel has has been a complete balagan.

I am also exhausted from the day because it has been the most trying. We have been to Ramallah. But I am get ahead of myself. It has been awhile since I have checked in. We left East Jerusalem for the north where we visited Christian sites around the Galilee. We went to Copernum, which was the site of the feeding of 5,000 at an old historic synagogue we also vegetated the Church of Beatitudes and the mystic city of Tzfat. There was a klezmer music fest when we arrived but barely got a chance to listen to. The evening ended with us going for a boat ride on the Galilee where we sang spirituals, Motown, and some Whitney Houston.

The next morning before we returned to Jerusalem, we stopped at the site on the Jordan River that was once believed to be where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. A large Christian group in white robes was getting prepared for an en masse baptism. Upon arriving in J town, we dropped our Muslim friends off at the Jaffa gate so they could go and say Juma prayers. Then we went to Machaneh Yehudah, the Jerusalem open air market where there were fresh vegetables, fish with wide eyes flapping around on the ice, bushels of spices, cookies, challah and falafel. It was packed because it was early Friday afternoon. We ate lunch together stuffing ourselves with our first falafel as well as barekas (stuffed pastries with spinach, mushroom, cheese or potato).

We had a very spirited Shabbat service at Shirah Hadashah, a modern orthodox synagogue with an egalitarian twist: there was a mechitzah which split the room and the ark; however, a woman led kabbalat shabbat for the community and the a man led ma'ariv. The mechitzah was removed for announcements. They have men and women read from Torah, give d'vrei torah. It is a very interesting concept. I had a wonderful time clapping and singing with all of the other pilgrims joining us. We then came back and had Shabbat dinner together. Unfortunately, one woman tripped and hurt her toe and had to go to the ER, but in the end everything was alright.

Sat morning, I went to services with my sister, Rabbi Ron Segal, Jan Swanson and Shelly Rose at a progressive synagogue called Kol HeNeshamah. There was a bat mitzvah service which was delightful. Afterwards at the oneg, a man came over to me and complimented me on my shirt. He asked after talking for awhile if I had been to the open house, which is the gay and lesbian community center in Jerusalem. I said, not this time. He smiled and said, "With your shirt and the size of your arms, I was able to pick you out." Wow! I was outted by my biceps. We had a nice walk through an incredible shabbat breeze. The weather was Jerusalem at its best.

After a bit of Shabbat rest we went to see the Dead Sea Scrolls and the Israel Museum. My partner this day was Booker, a Muslim man in his 60s who is now a real estate broker, but used to play bass for Otis Redding. He is a completely wonderful man. We had a great time walking around the museum. The night ended with Havdallah followed by a trip to an Arts festival that was made a blast by my buddies, Tiffany- a Candler seminarian, Monica- a Columbia seminarian, Darell Elligan, Omer (they have been mentioned earlier). We laughed the whole way through. There was performance art with mimes, belly dancers and some interesting arts and crafts.

So, folks it is late, I will tell you about my tense day in Ramallah tomorrow. We wake up tomorrow at 5:30 am as we ready ourselves for Masada, Ayn Gedi and the Dead Sea.

Shalom-Salaam-Peace,

Joshua